London Fashion Week started off with some of my new and always favorites. The first of which is Nensi Dojaka.
The winner of the LVMH prize continues on with her mission to make daring cutouts and straps into underrated sensuality. She’s the one who is showing skin without the brash connotations. It’s also about a woman who is in control of her narrative. It also reflects the feelings we will carry as we move out of the trauma of the past two years. It’s about freedom, partying, and blurring the lines.
What Nensi Dojaka has accomplished into meshing lingerie with the perennial little black dress, speaks to a wide audience. Spot fast-fashion is slowly taking inspiration and how the brand remains to be the favorite among TikTok’s coolest.
For fall/winter 2022, Dojaka says of the collection, “I just wanted to introduce a bit more of a wider concept of what this woman can be.”
Always playing with a diverse range of influences is Molly Goddard. It was back to an actual runway this season for the designer and it came with a curious mix. She shared to Vogue, “I thought she was a cross between Marilyn Monroe and Mick Jones [of The Clash] and I based this collection around her.” This was referring to a friend in the circle of Goddard’s mom.
What the collection brought is Goddard’s signature ruffled patterned with comfortable sweaters, ready for a rainy day sans a damp mood. It’s oversized and comfortable in sparkly fabrics but also patterns that give you that hometown throwback.
Someone like Simone Rocha always manages to bring some myth into her works. For this collection, she was inspired by the Children of Lir. The Irish story is about the lives of four daughters and sons turned into swans by their stepmother. Upon returning to their human form, they meet death.
In the bleakness of the story, Goddard found magic with the folds of the fabric and the embroidered swans. Biker jackets with unconventional dresses, the black and white motif suggesting a certain discipline only Goddard can achieve.
Raf Simons began his show by presenting a blue cloak suspended from a hat–created with Stephen Jones. The inspiration? Pieter Bruegel the Elder’s 1559 painting Netherlandish Proverbs.The motif continues on through various jackets and dresses, a testimony to Simons love for making his clothes speak for him.
